Northwest Territories: A Wilderness to Explore

Sahtu Fireweed, Northwest Territories

The Northwest Territories (or NWT) is a vast land with an area of 1.17 million square km. Although it has a reputation of being a treeless and desolate tundra, a lot of the territory is below the treeline, and consists of thick evergreen forests and spectacular mountain scenery. There are great rivers, (including the Mackenzie which has one of the largest river deltas in the world), and thousands of lakes. The effects of glaciation have left rolling hills, rich in mineral deposits, which have made a significant contribution to the development and economy of the territory. The area here is very remote, and has few roads, except in the southern part of the territory. Tourism here is definitely adventure oriented, and there are countless activities and sights for the traveller who is looking for something different. The Northwest Territories has two groups of indigenous people. The Dene live around the Mackenzie River and the Great Slave Lake, and the Inuit who generally live in the northern areas.

Many people come to the NWT to experience the wildlife. This is one of the few places remaining where wildlife sightings are almost guaranteed. In the NWT you can witness some of the last herds of bison on the planet. There are also herds of muskox and caribou, and moose can be found in abundance. As well as polar bear near the Arctic Ocean, there are grizzly bear and black bear. There is a multitude of bird life with hundreds of different species that come to the NWT in summer to take advantage of the long hours of daylight. Some of these are quite rare, including the whooping crane.

HISTORY, ECONOMICS AND CULTURE

The Dene people first came to the Northwest Territories around 10,000 years ago. They followed the caribou herds to the Arctic Circle during the summer, and then returned to the forested areas in the south for the winter. About 4,000 years ago, the first Inuit people migrated from Alaska to the Canadian Arctic, and started the Dorset culture. About 1000 years ago the Thule people also came from Alaska. They brought new hunting techniques and superseded the Dorset culture. It is the Thule traditions that are directly linked to today's Inuits. The search for the Northwest Passage brought European settlers to what is today the territory of Nunavut. In 1610 Henry Hudson discovered Hudson Bay. The Hudson Bay Company was founded, as was its rival the North West Company. These both sent traders and explorers all over what is now Western Canada. In the mid-1700s, the explorer Samuel Hearne travelled overland to the mouth of the Coppermine River, and then south to the Great Slave Lake. In 1789 Alexander Mackenzie navigated the lake, and then sailed to the mouth of the Mackenzie River - above the Arctic Circle.

Early Settlers Coming Ashore, Northwest Territories

The discovery of copper, and the ongoing search for the Northwest Passage brought more exploration to the area. Whaling and the fur trade brought added potential for enterprises and thus limited settlement. Following the fur traders and hunters came Catholic and Anglican missionaries, who established schools and churches. The Hudson Bay Company administered this land for the British until Canadian confederation in 1867. At that time the Northwest Territories consisted of nearly all of Western Canada, before most of the western provinces were founded at the turn of the twentieth century. The boundaries of the Northwest Territories were established in 1912 (including modern-day Nunavut). The Royal Canadian Mounted Police administered the territory for Ottawa until it was decided to establish a territorial government in 1921.

In the 1920s oil was discovered near Fort Norman and in the 1930s radium was discovered near Great Bear Lake. These two occurrences marked the beginning of even more rapid growth and development, really bringing the NWT into the 20th century. Gold was also discovered near Yellowknife in 1934. World War II followed by the Cold War brought military bases, weather stations, and, above all, airports. Without the airplane the NWT could certainly not have developed to the extent that it has. Accessibility from the world at large has only been made possible due to the dynamics of air travel. All this development, modernization, and an influx of new people have meant drastic changes to the traditional life of the indigenous people. The traditional livelihoods of hunting and fishing, and their nomadic way of life have largely disappeared. Fortunately they are kept alive in their arts and culture, and so the traditions are still passed down from one generation to the next. The ever-increasing amount of tourism also helps to ensure that the knowledge and demonstration of this traditional lifestyle will remain, as interest in the traditional First Nations heritage is a big attraction that helps draw tourists to NWT.

On April 1st 1999, the land area of the Northwest Territories decreased by 2.2 million square km. when the large eastern portion of it became the independent territory of Nunavut. This has brought even more change, and a large proportion of the Inuit population is now in Nunavut.

CLIMATE

	Tug-O-War at Yellowknife's Caribou Festival

Summers in the southern part of the NWT can be surprisingly warm, and on occasion this area has some really hot weather. If you combine this with the long hours of daylight in the summer, this part of the NWT makes for a very attractive destination for potential visitors. The beautiful lakes, rivers, and national parks mean that the summer brings a multitude of available activities. Winter is long and cold, and the days are mostly dark, with an average of only six and a half hours of daylight - even less in the far north. However, a trip at this time does provide a really different perspective on the world. An added bonus to winter travel here, is that the Aurora Borealis (or Northern Lights) illuminate the sky with an amazing show of various lights and colours. People come from all over the world to witness this spectacle in the sky. In March, Yellowknife holds its annual Caribou Carnival.

TRANSPORTATION

Floatplane, Northwest Territories

There are highways located in the southern and western part of the territory, with some of these paved. Other parts of the NWT are without roads outside the actual streets and tracks of communities. Remember that distances are long and facilities are very limited, so prepare accordingly. Yellowknife is linked from the rest of Canada by highway. There is a Greyhound bus service to Hay River, NWT through Alberta. At Hay River there are connections to Yellowknife, Fort Simpson, Fort Smith and Fort Providence with a local bus company. The vast majority of visitors to the NWT fly there. Yellowknife is linked from Edmonton by regular scheduled airline service, and worldwide connections are available at Edmonton. Yellowknife also serves as the hub for air travellers to many of the communities across the NWT and Nunavut. Where there is no scheduled service, charters can usually be easily arranged. For places without airstrips, float and ski planes are also widely available.

NOTEWORTHY FEATURES

A very popular activity in the NWT is fishing. The clear lakes and rivers of the territory provide a rare opportunity for the angler to experience their sport in truly pristine waters. In addition the fish here are particularly feisty, so this is really sports fishing. Breeds you can catch include: Arctic char, (which you can catch very far north near the coastline of the Arctic Sea.) pike, Arctic grayling, whitefish and trout. 'Catch and release' is encouraged, (and in some lakes mandatory), as is the use of barbless hooks - which prevent damage to the fish's mouth. If you catch a trophy fish, a replica of it can be made, and the actual fish returned to the water to wait to challenge future fishermen. You must obtain a sport-fishing license, which can be purchased at lodges, sporting stores and government and tourist information offices. In some areas special regulations apply. One of the best experiences for anglers is to fly to an all-inclusive fishing camp, somewhere on a remote lake, where facilities are of a very high standard and everything is provided. All the visitor has to be concerned about is how to catch the biggest fish, and expert guides will even help you with this.

	Nahanni, White Water

One of the most well known attractions in the NWT is Nahanni National Park. In hiking and canoeing circles it is world famous for its phenomenal scenery and white water. This reputation is certainly deserved, and the park has been designated as a United Nations World Heritage Site. Nahanni is located in the southwest part of the territory close to the border with the Yukon. The park consists of a large part of the Mackenzie Mountains and the South Nahanni River. The river is 322 km (200 mi) long and is surrounded by dramatic canyons. The white water rafting and canoeing here is among the best in North America. The Virginia Falls are almost twice as high as those at Niagara, and there are two sulphur hot springs at Wildmint and Rabbitkettle. After a day's hiking or canoeing, relaxing in one of these hot springs, surrounded by awe-inspiring scenery, is an amazing way to spend the evening. The park is so wild that much folklore has been developed about Nahanni. This includes tales of gigantic mountain men, and even a tribe of Amazon-like white women! What is legendary though, is the amount and quality of wildlife that you are likely to witness here.

The Virginia Falls, Northwest Territories

One of the reasons the park largely remains as it has for millions of years, is its limited access. The only way into the park is by aircraft. Most people visit the park as part of an inclusive tour so the tour company takes care of the price of transportation. However it is possible to make your own plans and to take a self-guided trip. All independent visitors must register with the park authorities before commencing a trip in the park. This enables the authorities to act if visitors get into difficulties in the rugged terrain of the park. There are aerial sightseeing tours available that fly over the park, allowing a great view of its spectacular features. Some of these tours will make a landing to enable visitors to take a short hike. One of the most popular destinations for a day trip is to Virginia Falls, which usually includes time for a hike in the area of the falls.

	Ice Fishing, Northwest Territories

In the NWT spring is referred to as 'snow season' - the time when the weather is warmer, the days are longer and yet there is still ample snow to enjoy for various leisure activities. These include cross-country ski trips along the frozen lakes and rivers, snowmobile excursions across virgin snow, snowshoeing, and even dog-sleigh expeditions. Another possibility is to take a trip to the isolated regions of the western high Arctic, visit the edge of the ice floe on the Arctic Sea, and watch the seals and walrus and many varieties of marine birds. You can even go ice fishing with the Inuvialuit (the Inuit people who make their home in the Northern part of the NWT) for delicious Arctic char. At this time of year, for outdoor activities, you will certainly need the proper winter clothing. This is usually supplied by your tour operator and may be modern expedition gear, or more traditional Inuit caribou skin clothing. Every one of these snow season activities is unique and memorable, and represents travel at its most rewarding. Learning about another land (and even to Canadians from Southern Canada the NWT is definitely another land) and culture is a major component of all these experiences.